ModBlossom QAL-Week 5: Putting It All Together!

Welcome back to the last week of our ModBlossom QuiltAlong! This week is all about putting it together so whether you’ve just made a few blocks or all (12) blocks – I’ve got some different layouts to share with you.

There’s no companion video to share with you this week as the pictures below kinda say it all! So let’s get started!

Now that you’ve made Flower & Leaf Blocks it’s time to put them together. You’ll note that the pattern does not call for any sashing strips in between blocks but if you’d like to add one – absolutely, it’s your quilt and you can do what you want 🙂 – it will make the blocks “float”.

If you’ve made (6) of each block or a total of (12) – you’ll of course have way more layout options, but I’ve given you some ideas below if you’ve only made two or three of each so let’s take a look! Please note that these pictures DO NOT have the outer border – of course once you decide your layout add 3″-4″ outer border strips on all four sides of your quilt top which will again make the blocks appear to ‘float’ in the background.

Layout #1 – A Small Baby Quilt (6 blocks) – this will measure 36″ x 54″ without borders

Not pictured – you could also just place (4) blocks together in a four patch and have a nice sized baby quilt as well measuring 36″ x 36″ without borders.

Layout #2 – A Small Lap Quilt (9 blocks) – this will measure 54″ x 54″ without a border

Layout #3 – Large Lap Quilt (12 blocks) – this is the pattern cover quilt and will measure 54″ x 72″ without borders

Layout #4 – Large Lap Quilt “On Point”

Lay out the blocks “on point” – I love this version and just wished I had planned this out more to make additional blocks in other color ways – To fill in the side triangles, from your background fabrics, cut 19″ x 19″ squares – cut each background square in half diagonally to create 2 triangles; and then stitch the triangles on to the beginning and end of each diagonal row! Looks complicated but it’s not!

You could use this “on point” layout even if you made fewer blocks!

Layout #5 – Table Runner (5-8 blocks)

This will measure 18″ x (x)” without a border pending how long you want your table runner.

Of course you can also make large throw pillows from each block. I would plan on adding a small outer border and use a 24″ pillow form so the actual block is showing on the front of the pillow and is not being wrapped around the edges of the pillow form.

So whatever way you choose to layout your completed ModBlossom blocks – I hope you’ll share a few pictures with Carl and I of your finished creations! Thanks so much for stitching along with me!

This concludes out ModBlossom QuiltAlong – I hope you enjoyed it!

Look for more Colourwerx QuiltAlongs on our Colourwerx Facebook page or on our website under QuiltAlongs!

Until your next colour fix – happy quilting!  Linda & Carl xxoo

ModBlossom QAL-Week 4: Make the Flower Block

Welcome back to another fun week of making beautiful bodacious blossom blocks! This is Week #4 of the ModBlossom QuiltAlong and this week is all about making the Flower Block! I think you’ll find this week’s block goes together much faster than its counterpart: the Leaf Block from Week #3!

Here’s this week’s companion video. You’ll also want to follow along with the diagrams and steps in the ModBlossom pattern – you’ll find those on pages 8-12.

GATHER THE FLOWER BLOCK PIECES:
To make just (1) FLOWER BLOCK you will need the following units:
• (4) Template A (2 cut from each of your (2) coordinating fat quarters);
• (4) Background Fabric Template B Shapes;
• (2) 6″ squares (1 cut from each of your (2) coordinating fat quarters);
• (2) Background Fabric 6″ squares;
• (4) 3″ squares & (4) 1-1/2″ Flower Center squares;
• (4) 3-1/2″ Flower Cornerstone Squares (2 cut from each of your (2) coordinating cornerstone fabrics);
• (4) Background Fabric 2-3/4″ squares;
• (4) Background Fabric 2-3/4″ x 5″ strips

STEP ONE – Make Half Square Triangles:
We’ll be making half square triangle units (HST) from our 6″ squares and our 3-1/2″ Cornerstone squares.

1. Start by pairing up (1) 6″ Background Square to (1) 6″ colored square – make 2 pairs. Also pair up the 3-1/2″ Flower Cornerstone squares with one fabric color to the other in each pair – create (2) pairs.

2. Draw a diagonal line down the Wrong side of the lighter square in each pair.

3. Matching the pairs Right Sides Together, stitch a 1/4″ seam down both sides of that drawn diagonal line.

4. Cut each pair of squares apart on the line and press to the darker fabric.

5. Trim down and square up the HST units as follows:
— Flower 6″ HST – trim down to 5″ – make a total of (4);
— Cornerstone HST – trim down to 2-3/4″ – make a total of (4)

STEP TWO – Make the Cornerstone Units:
1. Gather the (4) 2-3/4″ HST Cornerstone units created above, the (4) Background 2-3/4″ squares and the (4) Background 2-3/4″ x 5″ strips.

2. Following the instructions and diagrams in the pattern on page 9, stitch the 2-3/4″ Flower Cornerstone HST to one 2-3/4″ Background square.

3. To complete the unit, stitch the 2-3/4″ x 5″ Background strips to the top edge. The unit should now measure 5″ x 5″. Make (4) units EXACTLY ALIKE taking note of the orientation of the Cornerstone HST. Trim and square the units if necessary.

STEP THREE – Stitch Template A to Template B:
1. Gather the (4) Template A and the (4) Background Template B.

2. Following the instructions and diagrams in the pattern on page 10, line up the notched ends of template B even to the edges of template A – pin in place – and stitch down the diagonal edge.

3. The unit should now measure 9-1/2″ x 5″. Make (4) units EXACTLY ALIKE. Trim and square the units if necessary.

STEP FOUR – Create the Flower Block & Snowball the Center:
1. Following the diagrams in the pattern on page 11, lay out the (4) template A/B units, (4) HST units and (4) 5″ Cornerstone units.

2. Sew each quadrant together .

3. The quadrant should now measure 9-1/2″ x 9-1/2″. Make (4) units. Trim and square the units if necessary.

4. Select the (4) 3″ Flower Center Squares and draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each square. Do the same to the (4) 1-1/2″ squares for the inner Flower Center squares.

3. Following the diagram on page 11-12 pin a 3″ Flower center square in the center corner of each Flower Unit. Make sure the diagonal line is orientated the right way – refer to the pattern.

4. To ‘snowball the corner’ – stitch on that line – BUT HERE’S A TIP: I like to stitch just a hair to the right side of that line. That way when you flip and press that corner over to center, the tip will match the center corner exactly. If you stitch right on the line, you’ll find that thread and the fabric folding over take up precious seam allowance and the tip of the 3″ square will never meet or match the center corner of the Flower unit. By stitching just a hair over to the right of that drawn line, you’ll ensure that it will.

5. Once you have pressed the 3″ square over to meet the center edge of the Flower Unit, trim away excess fabric layers below leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance. Repeat the above on all (4) Flower units.

6. Repeat the above steps with the 1-1/2″ Flower Center Inner squares – snowballing each to the center corner of the Flower Units. Repress the snowballed seams of (2) opposing Flower blocks in the opposite direction so the center seams will nest nicely.

7. To finish your block stitch the units together to form 2 rows and then stitch the rows together to create the block. When complete the block should measure 18-1/2″ x 18-1/2″.

That’s it for Week 4 and wow! we are almost complete! Next week is our last week – in Week 5, we’ll put it all together ! So go forth and make more Leaf and Flower Blocks!

Feel free to ask questions, share your progress and of course, post pictures over in the Colourwerx QuiltAlong Facebook Group – here’s the link just in case:

COLOURWERX QUILTALONG FACEBOOK GROUP HERE

Until our final week together, happy #colouricious quilting!

xxoo Linda & Carl

ModBlossom QAL – Week 3: Make the Leaf Block

Welcome back to the ModBlossom QAL !! This is Week 3 already and this week we’ll be making these gorgeous huge Leaf Blocks!

Here’s this week’s companion video and again I can honestly say, I think the video shows you a lot more tips and tricks than what you’ll probably get by reading this post. You’ll also want to follow along with the diagrams and steps in the ModBlossom pattern – you’ll find those on pages 5-8.

GATHER THE LEAF BLOCK PIECES:
To make just (1) Leaf block you will need the following units:
• (8) Background Fabric Template C (L shapes);
• (4) total Leaf Fabric 10-1/4″ squares (2 each of 2 fabrics);
• (4) total Leaf Center 4-3/4″ squares (2 each of 2 fabrics)
• Template D Shape

STEP ONE – MAKE HALF SQUARE TRIANGLES:
We’ll be making half square triangle units (HST) from both our 10-1/4″ squares and our 4-3/4″ squares. 1. Start by pairing up the same size squares together with one fabric color to the other in each pair – you’ll create (2) pairs for each size.

2. Draw a diagonal line down the Wrong side of the lighter square in each pair.

3. Matching the pairs Right Sides Together, stitch a 1/4″ seam down both sides of that drawn diagonal line.

4. Cut each pair of squares apart on the line and press to the darker fabric.

5. Trim down and square up the HST units as follows:
— Leaf Fabric HST – trim down to 9-1/2″ – make a total of (4);
— Leaf Center HST – trim down to 4″ – make a total of (4)

STEP TWO – CUT OUT TEMPLATE D
1. Gather template D and the (4) 9-1/2″ Leaf HST units. Lay Template D along the diagonal line of one Leaf HST unit matching tip to tip. Trace with a washable marker, the curved edge of Template D onto the RIGHT side of first HST unit. Also transfer and copy the markings onto the Right side as well – there will be 6 markings: three on each side – one in center and one to the left and right of that center mark. These markings will guide your placement of the L Shape (Template C) in the next step.

2. Cut out the curve on both sides of the Leaf HST. Use scissors if you are not confident using your rotary cutter to avoid a mishap – eek!

3. Repeat the above steps on all (4) Leaf HST units.

STEP THREE – ATTACH AND STITCH ON THE L SHAPE (Template C)
1. Select (2) L Shapes and (1) Curved Leaf unit. Press the L shape in half to crease a center mark for yourself.

2. Align (1) L Shape Right Sides Together with the Leaf Unit – matching the center marks; pin in place. Next take the end of the L shape and align it to the mark on the left; pin in place. Do the the same with the remaining L Shape end on the right side of center. You may pin more but I find these 3 pins work fine when stitching the L Shape to the Leaf Unit. Repeat on the opposite side of the Leaf Unit.

3. Maintaining your “best” 1/4″ seam, stitch the L Shape on the Leaf Unit. Do not remove the three pins if at all possible. It is important for the L shape to begin and finish on the hashmarks you transferred from Template D. The video tutorial shows me stitching this curve in real time for you with some helpful tips and tricks – and the patterns also has helpful tips on page 6.

4. Once both L Shapes are stitched to the Leaf Unit, press the seams out toward the L Shape Background fabric. Repeat the above steps on the remaining Leaf units and L Shapes to create a total of these (4) units.

5. Place (1) Leaf unit on the cutting board and trim the to 9-1/2″ x 9-1/2″. You will find that most of the outer corners of the L Shape will be trimmed away. Do this same step to all (4) Leaf units.

STEP FOUR – SNOWBALL THE CENTERS (OR CHOOSE NOT)
1. Lay out the 4 Leaf units in formation on your cutting mat.

2. Select the (4) Leaf Center 4″ HST units you created above and draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each unit in the OPPOSITE DIRECTION of the seam line.

3. Following the diagram pin a 4″ HST unit in in the center corner of each Leaf Unit.

4. To ‘snowball the corner’ – stitch on that line – BUT HERE’S A TIP: I like to stitch just a hair to the right side of that line. That way when I flip and press that corner over to center, the tip will match my center corner exactly. if you stitch right on the line, you’ll find that thread and the fabric folding over take up precious seam allowance and the tip of the 4″ HST unit will never meet or match the center corner of the Leaf HST. By stitching just a hair over to the right of that drawn line, you’ll ensure that it will.

5. Once you have pressed the Center HST over to meet the center edge of the Leaf Unit, trim away excess fabric layers below leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance. Repeat the above on all (4) Leaf units.

To snowball the center corners of the Leaf units or not to – is entirely up to you. Notice on the pattern that some Leaf blocks have a double pinwheel center(far left photo below and what we learned above) and some have a single pinwheel (center photo below and created like above but just using (4) 3″ squares) and some do not have any snowball center at all (far right photo below).

Check out page 8 in the pattern for more info on this and diagrams.

STEP FIVE – ASSEMBLE THE LEAF BLOCK
1. Once the centers of each Leaf unit have been snowballed (or not), place the 4 blocks in formation. Stitch the units together to form 2 rows and then stitch the rows together to create the block. When complete the block should measure 18-1/2″ x 18-1/2″.

That’s it for Week 3! Week 4 will construct and stitch together that beautiful Flower Block!

Feel free to ask questions, share your progress and of course, post pictures over in the Colourwerx QuiltAlong Facebook Group – here’s the link just in case:

COLOURWERX QUILTALONG FACEBOOK GROUP HERE

Until Week #4, happy #colouricious quilting!

xxoo Linda & Carl

ModBlossom QAL – Week 2 : Make the Templates and Cut Your Fabric

Welcome back! Today we start Week #2 of the ModBlossom QAL ! This week is all about making the template shapes and cutting your fabrics.

But first – if you’re just joining us, there’s still time to hop in!
Here’s what you’ll need to join in on the stitchin’ fun –
• The ModBlossom Pattern! You can purchase it in either paper or PDF formats buy clicking the links below….

Purchase the ModBlossom Paper Pattern here!

Purchase the ModBlossom PDF Pattern here!

WHAT YOU MAKE DETERMINES HOW MUCH FABRIC YOU WILL NEED
Now you need to decide what you want to make while you join me in stitching up these fun blocks over the next few weeks….here’s two options to choose from:

THE LAP QUILT: (which finishes at 62″ x 80″) is fat quarter friendly so all you need is a fat quarter bundle with at least (18) fat quarters plus background yardage of 3 yards.

• I Want to Make Just a Block or Two – If you’re unsure and just want to ‘dip your toes in’, making just a block or two of each leaf and flower version is a great fun, and you can always turn these large 18″ x 18″ blocks into pillows or a table runner when complete.

For just making a block or two – you’ll need to gather 6 fat quarters plus about 1/2 yard background yardage.

It’s time to start! Here’s this week’s companion video and I can honestly say, I think the video shows you a lot more tips and tricks for cutting than what you’ll probably get by reading this post:

Step One – Make the Template Shapes
Depending upon which format you bought the pattern in, (whether that be a paper pattern or an electronic PDF download) you’ll need to trace and cut out these template shapes to make each of the blocks we will be working on.

• Paper Pattern: Find the Pattern Insert and unfold. Then just trace the shapes onto template plastic or heavy card board and cut out.

SIDENOTE: Sometimes I like to make a copy of all of the pattern shapes – you can do this at Staples or an Office Depot.Then I use an adhesive spray (like 505 or a Photo Spray). I spray the adhesive on cardboard or a file folder- fuse my paper copies to the cardboard and then cut the shapes out.

• PDF Pattern: If you bought the PDF pattern, print out the last 4 pages of the pattern. Make sure your printer is set to 100%. Check the scale ruler on each pattern page for accuracy and adjust your print settings if needed. Then tape together where indicated the (2) shapes that make Template D. To complete your templates, either cut out each shape or trace the shapes onto template plastic or heavy card board and cut out. Or print extra copies and adhere as explained above to heavy cardboard using spray adhesive.

Regardless, once complete, you should have four template shapes prepared: Templates, A, B, C & D.

Step Two – Assign Duties to the Fat Quarters & Cut
If you’re making the Lap Quilt which requires (18) Fat Quarters + 3 yards Background, you’ll probably want to follow the cutting directions in the pattern on pages 1-4.

The cutting directions below assume you are making (1) Leaf Block and (1) Flower Block. However, if you want to make more blocks during the quiltalong just repeat the below (x) the desired number of blocks you want to make.

First, let’s assign our Fat Quarters their duties. Last week, I mentioned that you’ll want to pair up coordinating fat quarters. These pairs will either make flower/leaf petals, OR be the centers of the blocks OR be the cornerstones in the Flower Block. See the diagram below.

I’m stitching right along side you so here is how I paired my ‘Stitchy’ Fabric (designed by Christa Watson at christaquilts.com). I added the extra pair of orange Fat Quarters as I am making extra blocks.

Remember anything goes here and there is no right or wrong pairing so if it looks good to your eye, then its good to go!

Lap Quilt – If you’re making the Lap Quilt follow the diagram below to help you divide up the 18 fat quarters into pairs. Notice that a few pairings are only making either (1) Leaf Block or (1) Flower Block (and not both) and the remaining fabric will be used for Flower Centers or even Leaf Centers.

Step Three – Cut the Fat Quarters
1. Cut Pair #1 – Flower/Leaf Block Fat Quarters – Each Fat Quarter that is assigned to make Flower & Leaf Blocks is cut exactly the same.

• First make sure the Fat Quarter is a FULL 18″ x 21″. Lay the FQ on the cutting board with the 21″ side running vertically and the 18″ side running horizontally. Also gather template Shape A. Keeping the pairs together: cut the following from EACH Fat Quarter:

• 

• 

2. Cut The Background Yardage – this is assuming you are making just (1) Leaf Block and (1) Flower Block: – also gather Template Shapes B & C. Refer to the pattern on how to lay the Template Shapes on to the fabric strips and to cut the templates out of the fabric. Remember to cut Template B with the strip UNFOLDED!

3. Cut the Remaining Pairs of Fat Quarters – These are for the Flower centers, Leaf Centers & Flower Cornerstones so you could use scraps too!

• 

• 

That’s it – all cutting is complete and we are ready to go!! Next week for Week #3 we’ll dive right in and start stitching the Leaf Block. Also feel free to ask questions, share your progress and of course, post pictures over in the Colourwerx QuiltAlong Facebook Group – here’s the link just in case:

COLOURWERX QUILTALONG FACEBOOK GROUP HERE

Until Week #3, happy #colouricious quilting!

xxoo Linda & Carl

ModBlossom QAL – Week #1 – Gather Your Materials & Your Pattern

Hello!  And welcome to the ‘first week’ of our ninth Colourwerx QAL (quilt along) where we’ll be making these large 18″ bodacious blossom blocks called “ModBlossom”. This is a super fun quilt to make, and it’s a great project to scour your stash for fat quarters and scraps. We’ll also be learning a litlle curved piecing and fine tune our 1/4″ seam piecing along the way!

JOIN THE COLOURWERX FACEBOOK GROUP: First, I want to thank you so much for joining us here.   If you want to meet with other Colourwerx quilty friends and aren’t yet a member of our Facebook group, I  invite you to join our free QAL Facebook group where you can ask questions, share your progress and of course, post pictures of your finished projects so everyone can share in the fun!  Also feel free to share this invite and any other QAL news with quilty buddies and invite them to join along in the fun!

JOIN THE COLOURWERX QUILTALONG FACEBOOK GROUP HERE

COMPANION VIDEOS: Each week of the quiltalong, also look for a companion video to be posted within the blog post like this one below.  If you’d like to receive alerts to when the videos are posted and other neat tutorials and replays of our Fab Friday Live broadcasts, then subscribe to our Colourwerx YouTube channel right here!

If you’d like to view this week’s companion video to Week #1 of the ModBlossom QAL, view it here:

So this is Week#1 of the ModBlossom QAL – 
First let’s review our super easy going 5-week schedule!
• Week 1 (this week) we’ll gather our pattern and our fabrics together…
• Week 2 is all about precutting our fat quarters and background yardage as well as making the template shapes included ion the pattern…
• Week 3 we’ll be piecing the large Leaf Blocks and learn a little about curved piecing….
• Week 4 we’ll be piecing the super fun Flower Blocks and fine tuning our 1/4″ seam piecing…
• …and Week 5, we’ll be putting it all together!

Here’s another picture of both the Leaf & Flower Blocks we’ll be making during the QuiltAlong. Of course, if you want to make more of these blocks, you can!

Week #1 – GATHER YOUR PATTERN & MATERIALS —
Here’s what you’ll need to join in on the stitchin’ fun –
• The ModBlossom Pattern! You can purchase it in either paper or PDF formats buy clicking the links below….

Purchase the ModBlossom Paper Pattern here!

Purchase the ModBlossom PDF Pattern here!

Just a note on the pattern: The pattern is written assuming the sewist will make the large lap quilt on the cover – that would be (6) Leaf Blocks and (6) Flower Blocks. So when you receive the pattern and start to glance through it – you may find the directions just a tad confusing or overwhelming as it speaks to cutting and making (12) blocks total. No worries….if you’re just dipping your toes in and want to make only a few of each block, just look below for yardage requirements and check back in here each week for specifics!

Pattern Insert with Templates: Also, depending upon which format you buy, (whether that be a paper pattern or an electronic PDF download) you’ll want to review the Pattern Insert page. You’ll need to trace and cut out these template shapes to make each of the blocks we will be working on.
• If you bought the pattern pattern, just trace the shapes onto template plastic or heavy card board and cut out.
• If you bought the PDF pattern, print out the last 4 pages of the pattern. Make sure your printer is set to 100%. Check the scale ruler on each pattern page for accuracy and adjust your print settings if needed. Then tape together where indicated the (2) shapes that make Template D. To complete your templates, either cut out each shape or trace the shapes onto template plastic or heavy card board and cut out.

WHAT WILL YOU MAKE DETERMINES HOW MUCH FABRIC YOU WILL NEED
Now you need to decide what you want to make while you join me in stitching up these fun blocks over the next few weeks….here’s two options to choose from:

• I Want to Make The Lap Quilt (as shown on the cover) — I’ll be making this version as we stitch together using Christa Watson’s newest fabric collection called “Stitchy” from Benartex Fabrics. It’s a super fun collection and you can order these fabrics directly from Christa at her website www.christaquilts.com.

The lap quilt (which finishes at 62″ x 80″) is fat quarter friendly so all you need is a fat quarter bundle with at least (18) fat quarters plus background yardage of 3 yards. Here are some pictures of different versions of the Lap Quilt:

• I Want to Make Just a Block or Two – If you’re unsure and just want to ‘dip your toes in’, making just a block or two of each leaf and flower version is a great fun, and you can always turn these large 18″ x 18″ blocks into pillows or a table runner when complete.

For just making a block or two – you’ll need to gather 6 fat quarters plus about 1/2 yard background yardage.

HERE’S HOW TO THINK ABOUT YOUR FABRICS TO START PLANNING FOR WEEK #2
Start thinking about your fat quarters in terms of pairs.
• Each pair of fat quarters will yield the petals for (1) flower block and (1) leaf block. If you glance at the blocks below, notice that the (2) magenta fabrics are in both my Flower and my Leaf block.

• You’ll also need a pair of fat quarters for your Leaf Centers & Flower Centers (these could also be an variety of scraps varying in size from 3″ – 4-3/4″ squares;

• And one more pair of fat quarters for your Flower Blocks Cornerstones (the 2 greens pictured).

** If you’re using a Fat Quarter Bundle with at least (18) fat quarters – you have endless pairings and options.

So go forth, get the ModBlossom pattern, and raid your stash for fat quarters or grab that bundle off the shelf that’s just been yearning to be used!

That’s it for Week #1 – that was fun! And I can’t wait to see all of your fabric selections! Week #2 we’ll cut our fabrics and preapre our template shapes!

Until then, please be sure to email us at colourwerx@yahoo.com if you have any questions.  Or feel free to post questions or progress pictures on our Colourwerx QAL Facebook Group.

Until your next colour fix and next week’s QAL post ~  happy and bright quilting always!   

L&C xxoo

View my Episode on The Quilt Show!

At long last, my episode of The Quilt Show – Wonky Piecing & Easy Appliqué: Episode #3012 – has been released! Carl and I had so much fun filming this on location in Austin, Texas with Alex Anderson & Ricky Tims!!

Here’s what Alex & Ricky say:
Love color? This is the show for you. Linda Sullivan of Colourwerx joins Alex and Ricky to demonstrate her method of wonky piecing. First, she shows Alex how to create a “wonky piecing building block” which can be used in any number of quilts. She then builds on that idea by demonstrating to Ricky how to use that building block to create fun and adorable machine appliquéd motifs. Linda continues her demonstration by highlighting the use of decorative stitches on the pieces of appliqué. Then, stick around until the end where Linda surprises Alex and Ricky with a “TV treat”.

Watch a preview of the episode right here:

Wanna watch the whole episode??
You can and for free — as well as experience all the benefits Alex, Ricky & The Quilt Show’s website and tutorial videos offer you in a free 7 day trial. Watch other quilt artists’ episodes! Shop for the latest and greatest patterns and notions! And tune into to see what Alex and Ricky are working on in their sewing studios! You can jump into your free 7 day trial at any time that is convenient for you through the special link below…

Click here for your seven day free trial to ‘The Quilt Show’!

I hope you have as much fun watching the episode as we did in filming it! Happy colouricious quilting everyone!

The Quilt Show Taping with Alex and Ricky!

We just returned from Austin Texas and a fun filled couple of days taping a new episode of The Quilt Show featuring ‘moi’ (me) with quilt show hosts and industry royalty, Alex Anderson & Ricky Tims.

If you are unfamiliar with The Quilt Show, Alex or Ricky – then I urge you to check out the website here!

The Quilt Show is the #1 rated, best online quilting website and online show. To view many of the episodes – past and those coming in the future – you need to subscribe as a member – but believe me, that membership has perks! It’s a good thing!

With each new episode Ricky and Alex bring you quilting artists from around the world to teach you new techniques, new tools and of course new quilting ideas! It’s also a fantastic website filled with the newsest quilting books, tool and patterns as well as a great resource for everything quilting!!

Alex also hosts live Facebook tutorials and chats- check out the Facebook page right here!

Carl and I were so thrilled to be invited and be part of this new series of shows which will air sometime in June 2022. We’ll be sure to announce the exact dates in our newsletter and on our social media channels!

For some episodes, they film in a studio and for others they take the show ‘on location’. We were “on location’ in a beautiful rented home in the Texas Hill Country which is located right outside of the busy and ever growing city of Austin.

First, we packed the Mini Cooper and set off on our 2 day journey to Austin. Our drive was for the most part uneventful and that was a good thing! Although this Cracker Barrel near Phoenix was hopping!

The next morning we arrived at the home where we would film the episode. It was a gorgeous large cottage perched up on the hillside and had beautiful landscaping and flowers.

What was great about being on location was that we were able to film the entire episode outside! The weather was lovely – not too hot, not too cold, not too windy and no humidity!

The Cosmos & Dazzle quilts as you can see from the pictures below looked right at home outside on the back deck! After a brief “Getting to Know You” interview with Alex and Ricky, we shot three teaching tutorial segments which were ‘Wonky Piecing, Easy Appliqué and Decorative Stitches”.

Even though Carl and I had previous careers in film and TV, I must admit I was a bit nervous. Carl, of course, did not want to be on camera so he stayed off camera (where he likes it) and set up all of my samples boards and organized the quilts and step outs for each tutorial…that was a real time saver and helped to ease some of my nerves.

Also Alex, Ricky and especially show producer, Shelly and production manager, Lilo had everything so organized and planned out. With their thorough vision of where, how and when each shot should look like and their leadership through the day, all went very smoothly! Plus the exceptional camera and audio crew also were so professional and made us feel right at home. And just like that with a 1-2-3, bang! – all the segments were taped and we were complete for the day!

At the end of the episode, I also presented Alex, Ricky, producers Shelly & Lilo with their very own ModTV block that I made especially for each of them! I printed pictures from the show on photo fabric and then appliqued them as the TV screen on each ModTV block. They came out oh-so-cute!

After we packed up all the quilts, hugged our hosts numerous times and said farewell, Carl and I took ourselves out for a celebratory dinner at a restaurant near the filming location in Lakeway, Texas that looked out and over the huge lake that many of the homes are perched over. The sunset was gorgeous that night!

All in all it was a grand time in Austin and now we can’t wait to see our episode and all the other guest teachers’ episodes they filmed that week in Austin! Again it should air sometime in June 2022 but we’ll be sure to let you know exactly when and where! Until then, please check out The Quilt Show – it is truly a marvelous resource and Alex and Ricky are really oh-so-much-fun!!

Until your next colour fix! xxoo L&C

Splendor QAL: Week #4 – Layout and Finish the Quilt Top

Whoop!  Whoop!  We are almost complete with our Splendor Quilt!  This is the final week of our quilt along and I do hope you all have been enjoying making these fab flower blocks!

This week – Week #4 – is all about laying out all the blocks and pieces and stitchin’ up that quilt top.  Relax and enjoy the process – it’s easy stitchin! 🙂

1. But first, just a reminder that all of your petals (large and small) should be appliqued stitched to their individual background blocks at this point. If you need reference, refer back to Week #2 & Week #3 of our Splendor QuiltAlong posts.

Read Splendor QAL Week #2 – Applique the Small Flower Blocks
Read Splendor QAL Week #3 – Applique the Large Flower Block

Also be sure to remove all of that stabilizer from the backside of your blocks.  I like to score mine with a straight pin and carefully tear away the stabilizer using tweezers if needed in the narrower sections between the petals. 

2. Next, following the Splendor Background Diagram on page 2 of the Splendor pattern, lay out all of your pieces on your design board or floor.  Take special note of which way some of the smaller flower blocks are orientated (look at the large petal on the small flower block – is it pointing  up, down to the right or to the left??  – these differences in orientation  give the circle of small flowers movement and rhythm around the large center flower block.

Once you are satisfied with your layout, stitch the background strips to each background corner block. Refer to the page 2 of the Splendor pattern again.

Next, stitch the single background  strip to its corresponding small flower block.

Not so hard right!?!

3.  And to finish your quilt top, refer to page 5 in the Splendor pattern and begin to stitch blocks together to form a row.  You’ll have a top row, a middle row (which will consist of the larger center flower block we created in Week #3) and a bottom row.

Watch the video below for how easy!!

Once all three rows are stitched together – your Splendor Quilt top is complete!

Great job and bravo! Now you’re ready to machine quilt some awesome designs in all of that negative space in the background or  send the top to your favorite machine quilter to do the same!

I’ll be sending this off to my favorite machine quilter, Teresa of Quilting is my Bliss who also machine quilted the first Splendor quilt! Below  are some up close photos of the fabulous quilting Teresa did on the first Splendor quilt!!  I’ll be sure to post the photos of the second Splendor quilt when she completes it!

This now concludes our Splendor QuiltAlong – send me your pictures so we can see your beautiful quilts!

Thank you so much for following along and for your continued support!  Look for more Colourwerx QuiltAlongs on our Colourwerx Facebook page or on our website under QuiltAlongs!

Until your next colour fix – happy quilting!  Linda & Carl xxoo

ModTV QAL: Week #4 – Personalize the Screen & Finish

Wowee!  We are almost complete with our ModTV’s!!  This is the final week of our quilt along and I do hope you all have been enjoying making these cute retro TV blocks!

This week – Week #4 – is all about personalizing the TV screen and finishing off your block into a pillow, wallhanging or make even more TV blocks for a fabulous lap quilt!  Here’s one of my customer’s ModTV quilt that she made for her husband.  She printed all of his favorite TV shows on photo fabrics, added a pocket for the remote control in one of the color bar blocks and voila! – he loved it!

Ok – so by now you should have made at least one ModTV block and it should be trimmed to 12-1/2″ x 12-1/2″.  If you need to catch up or need extra help, please refer back to the previous blog posts below.  You can also find a weekly companion tutorial video for each week on our Colourwerx YouTube channel !

READ WEEK 1 – GATHER YOUR PATTERN & MATERIALS

READ WEEK 2 – PIECE THE TV & LEGS

READ WEEK 3 – PIECE THE ANTENNA UNITS & COLOR BAR BLOCKS

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR COLOURWERX YOU TUBE CHANNEL

So let’s get started and finish up those cute ModTV blocks!

Check out this week’s video!!  You can view the companion You Tube video for this week right here!

Personalize the TV Screen —
The very last piece to go on your TV block is the TV screen.  It is not pieced in but rather fused on with an adhesive fusible web (like Heat ‘n Bond Lite or Steam A Seam II Lite) and then appliqued stitched on. 

There are several different ways you can choose to personalize your TV screen and therefore make it truly a unique creation.  First know that whichever method you choose, you will need both a 5″ x7″ piece of the fabric (or photo fabric) and of the adhesive fusible web.

Once you decide what to do, iron the 5″ x 7″ piece of adhesive fusible web onto the WRONG side of the fabric (yes, even the photo fabric), and then trim the piece to 4″ x 6″.  You can even follow along in the pattern on page 5 and use a thread spool to round the corners of the TV  Screen. 

When you are ready, peel the release paper off the backside of the screen, and using a pressing cloth, iron (or fuse) the screen in the center of the TV unit. 

Zig Zag stitch around the edges of the screen to secure it to the block.  

Here’s a few ideas for you to personalize your TV screens!

1. Use the same fabric as the background fabric or a similar fabric.  The easiest and sometimes the most graphic looking!  These blocks are totally fabulous and create the ultimate mid-mod statement!

2. Use a fun stripe or zig zag fabric.  If you want to give the look of  static running across your TV screen , a fun stripe or colorful zigzag will do the trick!  I used this fun colorful wonky zig zag from the Kaffe Fassett Collective!

3. Fussy Cut a Motif from a Licensed Fabric.  This is where I think most of us have a lot of fun – fussy cutting around a motif as if this scene is “playing” on the TV set!  And there are so many great fabrics to choose from these days:  Wizard of Oz!, Star Wars, I Love Lucy!, Star Trek, Cartoons, Cats, Dogs – you name it!

 

4. Use Photo Fabric for the Ultimate Personalization. I love this idea as it instantly creates a super fun memorial pillow.  There are many brands of photo fabric out there – but for me, I find these two brands EQ Printables or June Tailor Computer Printer Fabric to be the most reliable and both are available at your local quilt shop or Joann’s Fabrics.

 

Here’s a block I made as a gift to Jenny Doan at the Missouri Star Quilt Company!

Here are a few tips when working with photo fabric:

— Resize your photo to a 5″ x 7″ – but make sure when you trim the photo to 4″ x 6″ that you have left ample head room to do so and you wont be cutting off someone’s head ! Also color correct it and “sharpen” it if needed with your photo app or photo program on your computer.

— Before printing on the photo fabric, print the image on a paper – waste a lot of paper until you are sure you have the image correctly sized and framed within the final 4″x6″ margins!   Photo Fabric is very expensive and you usually only get 5 or so sheets in a packet.

— When you are ready to print the image on photo fabric, do not print your image using the fine or photo settings on your inkjet printer.  This will lay down way too much ink on the photo fabric and your image will appear very dark and may even smudge as it comes through your printer. Just use the regular settings and the photo should print on the phot fabric just fine!

— To heat set the image so the block can be washed,  follow the photo fabric manufacturer’s directions.  Each company is slightly different!  Full disclosure here – I don’t heat set my photo fabric as I don’t wash my blocks.  Many of the projects I make are samples or for display only. There are ways though to heat set so you may want to print a test photo and try it first before your final photo printing!

Complete Your TV Block into a Wallhanging or Pillow —

To Make Into a Wallhanging – Once the TV screen has been fused and stitched in place, just add some batting and a backing fabric square that is 12-1/2″ x 12-1/2″.  Then quilt the block as desired and bind to create a small wallhanging.

I like to use a straight stitch or even my serpentine stitch (#4 on the Bernina) to stitch lines about a 1/4″ apart.  It looks like radio waves or TV signals!

 

If you did not want to bind your ModTV block, you could frame it using a 12″ x 12″ record album frame from Michael’s Arts & Crafts!

To Make Into a Pillow – As above, once the TV screen has been fused and stitched in place, just add some batting and 2 backing fabric rectangles that measure 9-1/2″ x 12-1/2″.  Also purchase a 12″ x 12″ pillow form from your local shop.   Place the batting on the wrong side of the block and machine quilt the block using a decorative stitch as described above or just stitch around the TV shape to give the block some texture.

For the backing of the pillow – Turn and press only one 9-1/2″ outer edge (not the 12-1/2” edge though) of each backing piece 1/4” over twice to the wrong side to encase the raw edge. Topstitch down the edge to secure.

Place the two backing fabric units RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER over the MODTV block and stitch around all sides. Turn the unit right side out and poke out the corners. Stuff with a 12” x 12” travel pillow form through the slit on the backside.

This now concludes our ModTV QuiltAlong – send me your pictures so we can see your cute and fun retro TV sets!

Thank you so much for following along and for your continued support!  Look for more Colourwerx QuiltAlongs on our Colourwerx Facebook page or on our website under QuiltAlongs!

Until your next colour fix – happy quilting!  Linda & Carl xxoo

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wonky Piecing & Easy Applique QAL – Week 4 – Easy Machine Applique & Finish

Welcome back!   It’s our final week – Week #4 – of our Wonky Piecing & Easy Appliqué QuiltAlong !  This week is all about applique stitching your animal shapes to your background fabric and then finishing off your project into either a wallhanging or pillow!

I’ll also be sharing with you how to get your sewing machine ready for machine applique, how to do some basic applique stitches, sew in and out of points and some very  general “rules of the road” to perfect your own applique stitch!  So let’s get started!

First off, my biggest tip to perfect applique stitching is: practice, practice practice….  Machine applique requires practice and alot of patience.  You may want to review this blog post, watch my companion video or subscribe to our Colourwerx UTube channel.  Then set yourself up with some basic scrap shapes like squares and circles on a background fabric and practice, practice, practice.

But first things first….

Set Your Machine Up For Success –
Here’s how I set my machine up for a day of applique:
1.  Open Toe Presser Foot – a must!  Notice that this foot  has no bars or metal in the middle of the two outer prongs – this allows you to see the “open road” ahead of you while stitching.  For me, it is a must have before I start any applique stitching;

2.  Schmetz 90/14 Quilting Needle – here we go again 🙂  but this size and type needle is perfect for applique stitching and allows me to switch from thread to thread regardless of the thread thickness as I applique stitch;

3.  Bobbin Thread – Regardless of the thread you choose for stitching around your shapes, I always use a neutral colored cotton 50 weight thread in the bobbin – usually the same weight and color thread that I piece my quilts with — something like a tan or light grey Aurifil 50 weight (look for the orange colored spool) works well.  Although the exception to this is that if the piece will be finished as a wallhanging and I have already pre-quilted the background fabric, I will match my bobbin thread to the backing fabric – again, using a 50 weight thread;

4.  Set Your Stitch to ZigZag – This is stitch #2 on my Bernina machine and my go-to stitch settings are: Width – 3.0, and Length – just under 0.8-0.9.  This seems to be good starting point for me.  Your machine may be slightly different and more than likely, you’ll need to adjust your settings as you practice and gain more confidence.

5.  Very Important:  Test Your Stitch & Adjust Your Tension – Once you have your machine set up, test your machine by stitching out a straight line of zigzag stitches.

Check your tension –   common issues are these:
If you see the bobbin thread (gray) on top like this, adjust your tension dial to a higher number;

If you see the top thread (orange) on the bottom of your stitches like this, adjust your tension dial to a lower number;

If your stitches “caterpillar” like this – you’ll need to attach a stabilizer to the wrong side  of your background fabric.

Stabilizer is just as the name suggests:  it provides stability to your stitching and helps to avoid distorted stitches.  Any stabilizer (like you use with digitized embroidery machines) will work just fine and even freezer paper works in a pinch!  My favorite brand is Sulky Iron On Tear Away Stabilizer.  (Sidenote:  If you pre-quilted your background fabric,  you won’t need to add a stabilizer.  The batting acts like the stabilizer.) 

Iron Your Shapes On to Your Background Fabric –
Once your machine is set up, you are ready to go and it’s time to iron your animal shapes onto your background fabric.

Score the release paper on the back of your applique shapes with a pin and then peel the release paper off.

Place your shapes in place on your background fabric – making sure that those shapes  that are overlapped by others are placed down first.  Once satisfied with placement, with a hot iron, press the shapes down applying at least 10-15 seconds of heat to the shape to secure it firmly to your background fabric.

You might want to make an overlay sheet for something like the ModFish which has several shapes overlapped on one another.  This can be made from tracing paper or a dress making interfacing product called Pattern – Ease which is sold at stores like Joann’s.  Pattern Ease is a non fusible, woven lightweight interfacing.  I like it because I can trace my pattern on it, place it over my background and then move the individual shapes into place under the Pattern Ease. Once satisfied, I can iron right through the Pattern Ease to secure the shapes in place.

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Additionally, I like to fuse the smaller shapes onto their bigger shapes and stitch around those smaller shapes before fusing that bigger shape onto the background fabric.  Great examples of this are: the ModCat head and eyes and eyelids, or the ModDog eyeball; or the ModFish eye, or ModFish fin on the belly! .

Why make your job harder?  Take for example the ModCat head, once the eyes and eyelids are fused in place, I leave the release paper on the wrong side of the head as it acts as a stabilizer and then I applique stitch around those shapes…I only have to wrestle with the head and concentrate on making my stitching around the eyes perfect and not deal with the whole background fabric, etc.  Easy-peazy!

Applique Stitching “Rules of the Road” –
I’ll do my best to explain these here on the blog but if you are more of a visual learner than I would encourage you to check out my companion video to this week’s quilt along which is now posted on our Colourwerx website and Colourwerx UTube channel.

1. Starting: Whenever I start, I like to bring my bobbin thread to the top.  This stops all of those nasty thread nests from occurring as you start. Turning your hand wheel one whole rotation, lower the needle into the fabric and then all the way back up again.  Pull on the top threads and pop the bobbin thread up to the top.  Now hold onto both the top and bobbin threads to start stitching. Secure the start of your stitch by either engaging your “secure stitch function” (check your manuals) or taking a stitch in place.   You can also just start stitching and when you finish going around the shape, you can bring all the threads to the backside, knot the threads and tie off.

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2.  Start Stitching:  Notice the photos below – the needle is “zagging” just to the outside of the applique shape and then “zigging” back onto the shape itself.  The foot is NOT really positioned in “dead center” of the shape and the background fabric.  The foot actually rides more onto the applique shape itself .  This is where I personally like my zig zag stitch to fall when I stitch.

3.  Stitching Around Curves:  Again check out the companion video as that might help, but the general rule on stitching around curves is as follows:

…if it’s an outside curve, stop and pivot on the on the outside edge:  to do this, stop with the needle down on the OUTSIDE edge of the applique, lift the presser foot with the needle still down,  pivot (or turn toward you) the applique piece ever so slightly, drop the presser foot and take a stitch or two until you feel you need to stop again and pivot to maintain your stitch quality and position on the edge of the applique;

 

…if it’s an inside curve, stop and pivot on the inside edge: just as above, stop with the needle down on the INSIDE edge of the applique, lift the presser foot with the needle still down,  pivot (or turn away from you) the applique piece ever so slightly, drop the presser foot and take a stitch or two until you feel you need to stop again and pivot to maintain your stitch quality and place on the edge of the applique.

When you are turning the corner and the stitch is falling on the outside edge of the applique, try to aim for the same exact point as you go around the corner (see the 4th picture where the purple pen indicates).

Straightaways are easy – curves and circles are not so easy because it requires patience and lots of stop and pivots , stops and pivots to stitch around the curve.  You might find that it will take you just as long to stitch around a small curve as it does for you to stitch the rest of the applique with straightaways. A great example of this is the top of the cat tail or the little paws on the Mini ModDog.   Be patient, slow down and practice.

3.  Stitching In and Out Of A Point: There are some really beautiful ways of stitching in and out of points but this requires dialing your stitch width down and up again as you keep stitching (meaning reducing your stitch width as you approach the point and then increasing your stitch width as you stitch out of the point)…this is a little like rubbing your stomach and patting your head at the same time and takes a lot of practice.

I prefer to do a more “lazy man’s” way of stitching in and out of points.  Stitch all the way down and directly over the point. Keeping the needle down, lift your presser foot and pivot the piece so that it is now at a 45 degree angle to the presser foot.  Take one, (sometimes two) complete stitches so the needle is again on the outside edge but on the opposite side of the point.  Again keeping the needle down, lift the presser foot and pivot the piece so you are ready to stitch down the new side.  Continue on stitching.   It’s appears a bit bulky but it works!

Now with that and a little practice – applique away!

Finish your Animal –
To Make Into a Wallhanging – Once all appliqué stitching is complete, trim your project down so the edges are neat and even.  Here are the approximate measurements of my samples to give you an idea:
•  Mini MoDog 12-1/2″ x 16-1/2″
•  ModCat – 15″ x 21″
•  ModFish – 21″ x 14-16

Bind the wallhanging as desired.

To Make Into a Pillow – Once all appliqué stitching is complete, trim your project down so the edges are neat and even. I’ll explain in detail below what I do for a Mini ModDog, but if you are making a Cat or Fish, you may want to find the appropriate size pillow form first and then cut the project 1/2″ larger than the pillow size and then size the backing fabric accordingly using the Mini ModDog examples below.

Trim the Mini ModDog to 12-1/2″ X 16-1/2″.

I use a Travel Pillow Form for my Mini ModDogs that measures 12″ x 16″.

Cut the Backing Fabric into 2 pieces: 12-1/2” x 14-1/2” and 12-1/2” x 12-1/2”.  Turn and press only one outer edge (not the 12-1/2” edges though) of each backing piece 1/4” over twice to the wrong side to encase the raw edge. Topstitch down the edge to secure. Place the two backing fabric units RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER over the Mod Dog and stitch around all sides. Turn the unit right side out and poke out the corners. Stuff with a 12” x 16” travel pillow form through the slit on the backside.

This now concludes our Wonky Pieced & Easy Applique QuiltAlong – send me your pictures so we can see your cute and fun Wonky Pieced Mod Animals!!

Thank you so much for following along and for your continued support!  Look for more Colourwerx QuiltAlongs on our Colourwerx Facebook page or on our website under QuiltAlongs!

Until your next colour fix – happy quilting!  Linda & Carl xxoo